I’m a F-cking New Yorker, and I’m Demanding Two Great Dinners in Venice — Don’t Say Gjelina.
THE QUESTION: Justin of NYC, admittedly, has high standards. That said, he better than deserves two great meals in his requested Venice Beach. His traveling partner has already dined at Gjelina and Shima — so something new, please?
Photo: KevinEats
THE ANSWER:
1. The Tasting Kitchen has received an obscene amount of gushing since it took over (in five minutes) the former still-breathtaking space of “Scandinavian” AK. A young group of Portland renegades, led by James Beard-knows-me Casey Lane, are developing new ingredient-driven menus every day — a self-claiming “montage” to “taste the terroir and cultures we have been handed” — be it Morocco’s, France’s or Libya’s. (The website’s “about” page is really, really powerful.) Whatever, just order the rillettes. According to Jonathan Gold, they’re better here than in France.
2. Piccolo, somehow, blurs the line between warm Italian home-cooking and modern inventiveness that challenges and pleases the palate. Wildly. Blueberry pasta with braised pheasant ragu? Lamb shank braised in rhubarb Port and foie gras risotto? Truffles EVERYWHERE? Just do it. It’s authentic Italy in California Venice. The famously miniature restaurant has recently expanded into the former stomping grounds of yesteryear’s Beat poets, so, oh yes, they’re accepting reservations. Dare to get a big beer at the neighboring biergarten, On the Waterfront Cafe, too.
The Tasting Kitchen, 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310-392-6644
Piccolo, 5 Dudley Ave., Venice, 310-314-3222
REVIEWS:
LA Weekly | Oregon Style: The Tasting Kitchen
LA Times | The Review: The Tasting Kitchen in Venice
Grub Street LA | Cena al Contrario “Reversal” with Truffles at Piccolo
TastingTable LA | Wine Tastings and Wine Dinners at Piccolo Ristorante
